yahweh boogieYou might think of Israel as a spiritual place or a country in which to collect yourself and even have an epiphany. Maybe that’s Jerusalem, but it sure ain’t Tel Aviv.
TEXT OLAF KOENS feedback 
No matter what time of the year you go, you’ll always will be surprised by the intense heat that slaps you in the face as soon as you set a step foot outside the airport. You better not forget to bring your sunglasses either, and put them on immediately because Tel Aviv is a bright and almost completely white city. You might even need them at night; the city’s lights are always shining. The second thing you sense, after the heat, is that there is a party going on and about that you are definitely right.
Those who fear the harsh sounds of Hebrew don’t worry: the dulcet tones of Russian are widely spoken throughout the city. Many taxi drivers, travel agencies, businessmen and even police-officers speak fluent Russian. If they or their parents didn’t migrate to Israel from the Soviet Union they’ve learned it in school. And if your Russian isn’t too sharp: English can get you everywhere you need to go.
Tel Aviv is famous for it’s sparkling nightlife and most of the city’s clubs and bars are found near the marina in the northern part of town. TLV is the biggest of them all, bigger then you can imagine, with a fantastic sound-system sure to blow you away. If you’re not in the mood to party, stop over at nearby seafood restaurant Mol-Yam for some deliciously fresh oysters. And once you’re bored with oysters, go for the grilled langoustine. When you’re ready to dance the night away again, pop in to all the little bars, pubs and discotheques in the port area.
After a couple of days you’ll discover that Rothschild Boulevard is the central hub of all activity in Tel Aviv. The pedestrian street is lined with trees and has a couple of nice fountains, small parks and kiosks. I understand that after having lived in Moscow upon hearing the word “kiosk” you might think of the little huts from which angry women sell you cigarettes and beer. In Tel Aviv, however, the kiosks are amazing little espresso bars, and sometimes even full-blown and Technicolor sushi places. For those who are fond of chocolate, make sure to get a hold of a little box of Max Brenner’s treats. They are some of the best chocolates I’ve had.
Rothschild Boulevard crosses Allenby Street, which will lead you straight to the beach. The entire coastline of the city is one big beach, which is constantly packed, except for when the sun is at its peak. And even with all of the people, Tel Aviv’s coastline has managed to stay surprisingly clean. If you thought that Israel was a conservative country, think again. Ladies, bring the skimpiest bikinis you have or fear being laughed at by handsome Israelis. When the sun goes down, take a walk toward Jaffo, the old Arabic port just half an hour away on foot. There is a small harbor, a little market square and hundreds of nice eateries. If you’re not looking for a long walk, Tel Aviv has a network of marshrutkas. But for those who left Russia specifically to escape the marshrutka, just flag down one of the many white cabs. There are private taxis, but the ones owned by bigger companies are a cheaper, safer choice.
It is worth spending at least one night in Scotts Pub on Allenby Street, where locals and foreigners alike hang around to watch football games and drink pints. The place gets pretty rough in the wee hours of the morning, so make sure to get out before things get out of hand. But in the pub’s quieter moments, it’s the best place in town if you’re looking to count Israeli soldiers, foreign volunteers and Air Force pilots among your new friends. Also, Scott’s army of pretty barmaids will happily serve you juicy burgers while you’re drinking.
To fight the hangovers a night at Scotts’ is sure to result in , we recommend 0.7 liters of freshly squeezed mixed fruit juice. Go to Sheinkin Street and you’ll find loads of places to get your hands on this delicious and therapeutic beverage. Although all of the places might look alike, we found that the best of the bunch was the last shop on the street, down the road from Allenby. No matter where you buy the juice, all of the fruit is fresh, meaning that for the equivalent of 100 rubles you’ll have enough vitamins to last for another 24 hours in Tel Aviv. |
