vibrant vilnius
Vilnius boasts the only statue of Frank Zappa in the world, so it goes without saying that the city is a dynamic place. Looking towards the future while embracing its rich history and culture, it’s an exciting mix of old and new that ensures a fun visit.
PHOTO + TEXT KATHLEEN PULLUM feedback
I think what struck me most when I visited Lithuania’s capital was the cosmopolitan feel of the city. How was this possible? In a country bordered by Belarus — the last Soviet hold-over — Latvia, Poland and Russia (Kaliningrad), and with its capital the most inland of all the Baltic states, Vilnius appeared as a surprising beacon of culture, art, commerce and traces of a service industry — all signs of a lively and modern city. Vilnius is a gorgeous metropolis, with elements of old and new, east and west everywhere. Coming from Russia and having travelled through the Baltics, it was more European — from its diverse architecture, shops and restaurants to noticably friendlier attitudes; all of this bares evidence to the city’s greater wealth, visible all over the capital. The country has clearly been energized by recent entry into NATO and the EU and the feeling is palpable in Vilnius. With a population of 545,000, it is by far the largest city in the country, but somehow feels just the right size for a small nation — though it is the heart of the largest of the Baltic countries and certainly deserves the title capital of the Baltics. With a beautiful old town in which ancient Catholic cathedrals stand side-by-side with Orthodox churches and internet cafes, which tourists wander in and out of without sensing the ethnic and religious tension that is the story of most of Eastern Europe, Vilnius is a city that is awakening from a long slumber and stretching its weary muscles. Patriotism is omnipresent and the country’s gold, green and red striped flag can be seen hanging from most buildings, particularly on national holidays. Any visit to Vilnius must naturally start in its beautiful old town. Begin near the top of the hill on Ausros Vartu. You’re at the point of the old town fortifications and one of the most beautiful and revered sites in the capital, the 16th-century Gates of Dawn. Take your time strolling through the ancient quarter, the largest of the Baltic countries, and set aside at least half a day to peek into all of the old churches — they’re all very different and in varying stages of restoration. Wander through the old alleyways and side streets through the hidden courtyards of Vilnius University — the oldest in Eastern Europe — to the river. You may be surprised to find some genuinely original and stunning interior design and art studios tucked into passageways, with many of the artists present and eager to talk to you about their work. Continue on to the classical-style Catholic cathedral at Arkikatedros Aikste. Somewhere in the plaza around the cathedral — superstition forbids revealing its exact coordinates — lies a tile with colored letters spelling the word stebuklas, or miracle. This spot marks the beginning of a human chain of 2,000,000 Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians who, in 1989, joined hands in protest of Soviet occupation, reaching the entire 650 kilometers to Tallinn. If you need a break after hours of walking, relax in a cafe — or better yet, if it’s summer, get a taste of local culture and pull into a beer garden. During the summer months, much like in Moscow, beer gardens pop up around the city and will be packed with a young, lively crowd enjoying the long days and warm weather. But unlike in Moscow, beer tents are not shoddy, hastily constructed tent and plastic table affairs. They’re professionally designed and constructed; and several of the more notable architects are even well known figures in the city. Sample the honey beer, which is considered a national drink and is quite tasty on a hot summer afternoon. To accompany your brew try cepelainai, the national dish. Meaning zeppelins in Lithuanian, the filling starchfest consists of a large potato filled with meat or curd cheese and often covered with pork fat, onions and sour cream. You’re virtually assured to be served them if you visit any locals — and to be expected to eat about a dozen. |
